A suit is made of fabric and accessories? No. The suit consists of three parts: fabric, accessories, and lining. Fabrics and accessories are both important, but the quality of a suit is determined by the lining because it connects the two materials, fabric and accessories, which have completely different ductility.
The relatively cheap, ready-to-wear approach is to use a low-grade adhesive lining that, over time, the fabric and accessories will no longer fit and will pull each other in the other direction. A good lining should be made of natural materials such as wool, linen, and horse hair so that when the fabric and accessories of a suit are running around, they can have a limited range of movement and help them reset. A good suit should have a good lining, you can hand-sewn on the top of the lapel, only such a suit can be placed there, chest as a three-dimensional armor has curved. But it was not cheap.
Fabric
Although the quality of the materials used has many factors, the price of the fabric now depends mainly on the place of origin. the ingredients are mostly wool, of course, there will be other ingredients, such as cashmere, but high-quality fabrics are made of natural fabrics rather than synthetic materials, it is important to keep in mind that sometimes it is written cashmere, but the quality level is far from the same.
Identification of pure wool fabrics
Pure wool fabric colors a naturally soft, warm effect that is good, in the production of high-grade suits and coats preferred fabric. But now wool-like, more and more fabrics, with the improvement of textile technology, have reached the level of most customers difficult to identify, but color, warmth, feel, etc. far from pure wool fabrics. Here are a few ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference in the selection of clothing and fabrics.
1. Feel the hand
Pure wool fabric usually feels silky, long hair fabric feels smooth downy touch, and reverse hair tingling feeling. And blended or pure chemical fiber, some less soft, some too soft and loose, and there is a sense of viscosity.
2. Look at the color
Pure wool fabric color is naturally soft and bright and has no sense of obsolescence. In contrast, blended or pure fiber fabrics, or luster is dark, or have a flash of color.
3. Look at the elasticity
Use your hands to secure the goods tightly, then immediately let go, to see the fabric elasticity. Pure wool fabric rebound rate is high, and can quickly, restore the original and blended or chemical fiber products, crease resistance is poor, and most left more obvious traces of wrinkles or slow recovery.
4. Single root identification
All animal hair is scaly under a microscope. If it’s a long-haired fabric, just take one, the hair will move up or down after a few scrapes like the one shown above (try this technique with a single hair first). If it is an ordinary fabric, take a single yarn, cut 2 cm into two sections of a piece of fiber on the palm of the hand rub four or five times, and see if they will move.
5. Single root identification
All animal hair is scaly under a microscope. If it’s a long-haired fabric, just take one, the hair will move up or down after a few scrapes like the one shown above (try this technique with a single hair first). If it is an ordinary fabric, take a single yarn, cut 2 cm into two sections of a piece of fiber on the palm of the hand rub four or five times, and see if they will move.
Wool blended fabric
Wool blended fabric, that is, cashmere, polyester, Spandex, rabbit hair, and other fibers and wool blended fabric. Wool and polyester blended fabric, under the sun, the surface has flash point, the fabric is stiff plate hard feeling, good elasticity, grasp the fabric after release, almost no wrinkles
Major species
1. Rabbit hair
Generally using a certain proportion of rabbit and wool blended weaving, rabbit sweater features fine fiber, feel smooth, surface fluff, soft color, good fluffiness, comfortable and chic wear, wear medium surface fluff that easy to fall off, and warmer than wool clothing.
2. Chemical ciliates
The common feature of clothing is that it is lighter. Fiber breaking strength than wool fiber is high, not moth-eaten, but its elastic recovery rate is lower than wool, thermal insulation, and pure sweater, are cheap, but easy to pilling.
3. A blend of animal hair and chemical fibers
With a variety of animal hair and chemical fiber “Complementary characteristics”, the appearance of hair and tensile strength has been improved, reducing the cost of sweaters, which is a cheap product. However, in the blended sweater, there are different types of fiber dyeing, dyeing ability is different, resulting in unsatisfactory dyeing results.
Synthetic wool-like fabrics
Has the natural fiber natural style characteristic. Bright color, good gloss, crisp, elastic, suitable for the public. Chemical cilia, the common feature of clothing is lighter. Fiber breaking strength than wool fiber is high, not moth-eaten, but its elastic recovery rate is lower than wool, thermal insulation, and pure sweater, cheap but easy to pilling. Animal hair and chemical fiber blended wool, with a variety of animal hair and chemical fiber“Complementary characteristics”, its appearance of wool, tensile strength been improved, reducing the cost of sweaters, is a good-quality and cheap product.
Distinguish between synthetic wool-like fabrics and pure wool fabrics
1. Different gloss
Pure wool fabric is mostly soft and natural, less colorful, synthetic fiber wool-like fabric, color, rich, bright, if in the sun carefully, often see the flash dazzling spots of light. This point for imitation wool cool like wool fabrics may be difficult to identify.
2. Feel and elasticity are different
The pure wool fabric feels soft, slightly fluffy, there is body bone, slightly live wrinkle but not hard, soft, and not straight rebound; and polyester, imitation wool although in appearance similar to wool, feels soft and smooth, with no bones, wrinkles, slow rebound.
Synthetic fibers
Due to the practical properties and manufacturing costs of this type of fiber problem, production is very small. Sekizawa is dull and lacking in poise, prone to wrinkles due to poor elasticity, and not easily gone. There are two types of synthetic fibers, namely, regenerated fibers and chemical fibers. Regenerated fibers are viscose fibers made from wood and grass fibers by chemical processing Chemical fiber is a synthetic fiber made from petroleum, natural gas, coal, and agricultural and sideline products. According to the shape and purpose of the synthetic fiber, they are classified into rayon, rayon, and artificial wool.
Mercerized wool
Mercerized wool is common wool through chemical and physical treatment, will wool fiber scale destruction, and through chemical reagents, make the wool become smooth, shiny, shrink-proof when washing, and suitable for wedding dresses. Mercerized wool is the treatment of wool products through the mercerization process in the dyeing and finishing process of textiles. The wool needs to be treated with BASOLANDC chloride or protease to destroy the scales on the surface of the wool and reduce the difference in friction coefficient between the forward and reverse motion of the wool. Mercerized wool can be spun from pure wool or blended. The main features are anti-shrinkage, machine washable, and anti-pilling.
Cotton and linen fibers
Advantages: soft and elastic feel, soft and natural luster, comfortable and beautiful, feel more high-grade, good moisture absorption, not easy to heat, good warmth, wrinkle resistance, especially in the garment processing after ironing have better pleating and garment shape retention.
Note: the washing temperature can not be too high, avoid scrubbing and wringing, and avoid sun exposure. Ironing key points: wet ironing, from the opposite side of the material, will be ironed dry. Disadvantages: not alkali-resistant, shrinkage, easy to wrinkle.
T/R Fabric
It is one of the characteristics of T/R fabric to make a stand collar jacket, lapel jacket, and casual wear with a lot of lattice or strip or Flash or monochrome t/R fabric. T/R fabric is a polyester-viscose blended fabric. Polyester-viscose blend is a highly complementary blend. Advantages: strong, anti-wrinkle, size stable, washable, and wearable. Can improve the air permeability of fabric, and reduce pilling, and anti-static phenomena.
Washing points: washing machine can be washed, but can not be used to brush, so as not to pilling, the opposite of drying.
High-density nylon and cotton
High-density NC cloth is a kind of fabric that is blended or interwoven with nylon and cotton yarn. The product combines the advantages of nylon and cotton yarn. The abrasion resistance of Polyamide is the first of natural and chemical fibers. The moisture absorption of Polyamide is good, and its wearing comfort and dyeing performance are better than that of polyester, the wettability and wear comfort of cotton yarn, nylon is lighter, and cotton yarn is heavier. The fabric weight can be reduced when the two are interwoven or blended. The disadvantages of NC fabric are: because nylon, is involved in interweaving or blending, the heat resistance and light resistance of the fabric are poor, in the use of the process should pay attention to washing, and ironing to meet the conditions, so as to avoid damage. Its most prominent style features: are not easy to wear, soft and comfortable, and easy to clean. Do not expose to the sun, and do not wring.
